It has been over a year since the fashion world lost dear Lee McQueen. I had previously believed that no one could ever carry on his vision or aesthetics, and that the label should have just folded. I do feel differently about the situation now. Sarah Burton arguably has the most difficult job in the fashion-sphere right now. She’s had some pretty huge shoes to fill, but she has exceeded my and nearly everyone’s expectations.
I really enjoy the contrast between soft and hard for this season. Burton has described the collection as “icy” and I couldn’t agree more. The shoes are intense and S&M like, but they are balanced out by soft fur collars and hems. I am a little puzzled by the traditionally spring color choices (white, lavender, light blue) considering this is a fall collection, but it’s a McQueen collection, so those “rules” can not be applied here. These colors appear rather wintry pared with leather harnesses and lace-up platform boots. The collection was shown at La Conciergerie, where McQueen had shown a previous collection in which live wolves made an appearance on the runway. This may be a chilling reminder that McQueen’s spirit still looms.
Overall, this collection was very dark and asylum-inspired, offset but soft colors and furs. Two words: hauntingly beautiful. For Sarah Burton, things can only go up from here as she becomes increasingly more comfortable with the hefty legacy attached to the Alexander McQueen legacy and aesthetic.